Fitz Roy

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This article is about the mountain. For other uses, see Fitzroy (disambiguation).
Monte Fitz Roy
Fitz Roy Chalten Argentina Todor Bozhinov 2013.jpg
Monte Fitz Roy in 2013
Highest point
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Prominence Lua error in Module:Convert at line 1851: attempt to index local 'en_value' (a nil value). [1]
Listing Ultra
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Geography
Monte Fitz Roy is located in Tierra del Fuego
Monte Fitz Roy
Monte Fitz Roy
Location in the Southern Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile
Location Patagonia, Argentina—Chile border
Parent range Andes
Geology
Mountain type Granite
Climbing
First ascent 1952 by Lionel Terray & Guido Magnone
Easiest route Franco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)

Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain located near El Chaltén village, in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. First climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, it remains among the most technically challenging mountains for mountaineers on Earth.

Monte Fitz Roy is the basis for the Patagonia clothing logo following Yvon Chouinard's ascent and subsequent film in 1968.

Discovery

Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno first saw the mountain on 2 March 1877. He named it Fitz Roy, in honour of Robert FitzRoy, who, as captain of the HMS Beagle had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.[2]

Cerro is a Spanish word meaning hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", due to a cloud that usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy, however, was only one of a number of peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.[2]

Setting

It has been agreed by Argentina and Chile that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,[3] but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.[4] The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its coat of arms.

The mountain has a reputation of being "ultimate", despite its average height (although being the highest peak in the Los Glaciares park, it is less than half the size of the Himalayan giants), because the sheer granite faces present long stretches of arduous technical climbing. In addition, the weather in the area is exceptionally inclement and treacherous. It also attracts many photographers thanks to its otherworldly shape. The area, while still fairly inaccessible, was even more isolated until the recent development of El Chaltén village and El Calafate international airport. The mountain climb, however, remains extremely difficult and is the preserve of very experienced climbers. Today, when a hundred people may reach the summit of Mount Everest in a single day,[5] Monte Fitz Roy might only be successfully ascended once during the span of a year.[citation needed]

Notable ascents

  • 1952 Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (aka Franco-Argentine Ridge)(First Ascent - Feb 2, 1952)[6]
  • 1965 Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2-1/2 days (Second Ascent)[7]
  • 1968 Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (3rd ascent of peak). FA by Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores and Douglas Tompkins (all from USA).[8]
  • In 1980 following the Col Americano route Gino Casassa, chilean, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile, and Walter Bertsch, from Austria, arrived the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (chilean too), arrived just to 2800 mts.[9]
  • 2002 Dean Potter, solo Supercanaleta[7]
  • 2009 Colin Haley, solo Supercanaleta[7]
  • 2009 Matthew McCarron, solo The Californian Route [7]
  • 2014 Between the 12th and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.

Gallery

File:165 - Fitz Roy - Janvier 2010 - Downsample.jpg
Panorama of Monte Fitz Roy in the morning
File:Monte Fitz Roy, El Chalten, Santa Cruz, Argentina.JPG
Mount Fitz Roy on January 16 2015
Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - January 16 2015

  • Monte Fitz Roy at sunrise

  • 162 - Fitz Roy - Janvier 2010.jpg
  • Localidad El Chaltén y el Fitz Roy.jpg
  • El Chalten.jpg

See also

References

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 "Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2013-10-05.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  3. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  4. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  5. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  6. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  8. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
  9. ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.

Further reading

  • Kearney A, 1993. Mountaineering in Patagonia. Seattle, Washington: Cloudcap.
  • Terray L, Conquistadors of the Useless, p. 307-8, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. ISBN 0-89886-778-9

External links

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