Bhera

Bhera
Country	Pakistan
Province	Punjab
District	Sargodha
Time zone	PST (UTC+5)

Bhera (Punjabi,Urdu: بهيره‎), is a city and newly upgraded Tehsil of Sargodha District, Punjab province of Pakistan.

Geography

It lies on the Jhelum river, at latitude 32.48 N, longitude 72.92. It is located on the mid of Lahore-Islamabad motorway (M2) at the left bank of river Jhelum near Southern Salt Range in Sargodha district. Before independence of Pakistan in 1947, Bhera was located in Shahpur District. Bhera is surrounded by green fields and its importance increased due to Motorway passes near Bhera.During Mughal period, carvans from Central Asia, Kabul, Qandahar and Peshawar used to cross the river to go to Lahore, Delhi and other parts of South Asia, Carvans from Kashmir used to reach Bhera along with the river.

The current site of Bhera built by Sher Shah Suri during his rule in the mid 16th century. Bhera town is divided into small residence area called Mohallah most famous mohallas are Sakhy Pir Azam Shah Sab who was descendant of Sheikh Baha-ud-Din Zakariya, and pious saint of his time he was famous for his generosity to people and entitled "Sakhy" means Generous, the other mohallas are Shah Naseeb Deryai, Hakeeman Wala, Imli Wala, Shesh Mehal, Pirachagan, Sethian wala, Sahnian wala, Khawjgan, Pakistani, Ali Bhatta, Naseerabad, Chah Bohrri wala, peeli kothi and Mohallah Qaziyan wala.

It is located on the Lahore-Islamabad motorway. and connects with Bhera interchange.( before this city was sub-tehsil, now it's tehsil) tehsil Bhera is the historical city of District Sargodha near Khushab. Its population is 100,000 is mainly dominated by Punjabis. Old Bhera is like old Lahore or old Peshawar. Its markets and streets are narrow. There is a circular road around the city. Old Bhera was situated on the right bank of the River Jehlum, on the opposite side new Bhera is located. There are heaps of ruins of old Bhera and remains of its markets and streets can still be seen on the other bank of the River Jehlum.

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  Bhera Mound

Demography

Population of Tehsil is 150,000 (2012 estimate) being mainly of Muslims and speaking Punjabi.

History

"Bhera" is a Sanskrit word which means: "a place where there is no fear".

According to the "Ancient Geography of India" by Alexander Cunningham, Bhera was once known as Jobnathnagar.

The modern town of Bhira or Bheda is situated on the left bank of the Jhelam; but on the opposite bank of the river, near Ahmedabad, there is a very extensive mound of ruins, called Old Bhera or Jobnathnagar, the city of Raja Jobnath or Chobnath.

At Bhera the Chinese pilgrim Faxian crossed the Jhelam in 400 AD.

The Imperial Gazetteer of India records the history of Bhera -

In the seventh and eighth centuries, the Salt Range chieftain was a tributary of Kashmīr. Bhera was sacked by Mahmūd of Ghazni, and again two centuries later by the generals of Chingiz Khān. In 1519 Bābar held it to ransom; and in 1540 Sher Shāh founded a new town, which under Akbar became the headquarters of one of the subdivisions of the Sūbah of Lahore. In the reign of Muhammad Shāh, Rājā Salāmat Rai, a Rājput of the Anand tribe, administered Bhera and the surrounding country; while Khushāb was managed by Nawāb Ahmadyār Khān, and the south-eastern tract along the Chenāb formed part of the territories under the charge of Mahārājā Kaura Mal, governor of Multān

About the same time, by the death of Nawāb Ahmdyār Khan, Khushāb also passed into the hands of Rājā Salāmat Rai. Shortly afterwards Abbās Khān a Khattak who held Pind Dādan Khān, treacherously put the Rājā to death, and seized Bhera. But Abbās Khān was himself thrown into prison as a revenue defaulter and, and Fateh Singh, nephew of Salāmat Rai then recovered his uncle's dominions.

The palace of Sopeithes which the Greek historian Arrian mentions as the place on the Hydaspes is supposed to be at Bhera. The Greeks refer to the Jhelum river as the Hydaspes River where Alexander fought Porus in Battle of the Hydaspes River in 326 BC. It was at this battle that Alexander's famous horse Bucephalus was killed.

The Kukhran Khatris are a group of eleven specific clans of Punjabi Khatris who originally hailed from the town of Bhera in Punjab. Till the time of the independence in 1947 Bhera had a mixed population consisting of majority Muslim with small Hindu and Sikh communities.

The demographic composition of Bhera was significantly altered however at the time of independence as almost the entire Hindu and Sikh Bhirochis migrated to India, some chose to stay back and converted to Islam.

The refugees who came to India settled in Delhi, Punjab and other cities of northern India. Northern Delhi continues to have a colony called Bhera town where a section of these refugees were resettled.

Bhera was also home to the Mohyal tribe who also claim Porus.

Bhera is a historical city. Mahmud of Ghazni In his attack on Waihind (Peshawar) in 1001-3, is reported to have captured the Hindu Shahi King Jayapala and fifteen of his principal chiefs and relations some of whom like Sukhpal, were made Musalmans. At Bhera a great many inhabitants, except those who embraced Islam, were put to the sword.

In 997 CE, Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi, took over the Ghaznavid dynasty empire established by his father, Sultan Sebuktegin, In 1005 he conquered the Shahis in Kabul in 1005, and followed it by the conquests of Punjab region. The Delhi Sultanate and later Mughal Empire ruled the region. The Punjab region became predominantly Muslim due to missionary Sufi saints whose dargahs dot the landscape of Punjab region.

Old Bhera was destroyed in 1545 because of the disputes among the Pashtun forces, and was rebuilt at the present location, that is the left bank of the River Jhelum. Sher Shah Suri was the founder of the new city. When he visited the old city, he was distressed upon seeing the destroyed areas. He camped at the left bank of river Jehlum, near Qaimnath's hut, and constructed the first building there. He also constructed the Shahi Jamia Mosque in the new city, which rivals the Shahi Jamia Mosques of Delhi, Agra and Lahore in beauty. Sher Shah Suri made a road, along which he built an "Eidgah" and water tanks for the passengers.

1300 years ago, many Muslim saints passed by Bhera which became famous in the whole of Asia. Businessmen and scholars arrived first and then many Afghan and Central Asian conquerors such as Mahmud Ghazni, Shahab ud Din Ghori, Mughal Babur and Ahmed Shah Abdali attacked or passed through the city in their campaigns.

Along with other things, peacocks were also presented to Hazrat Suleman. The people of this area were well educated. The people of other cities and countries had been learning Tib, etc. from here. Alexander the great after conquering Iran and passing through the Hindu Kush, reached the Punjab and came to the River Biyas and then turned back from there. Bhera earned a great status during the Mughal rule. Mughal emperor Zaheer-ud-din Babur mentioned this town in his famous book, Tuzk-e-Babri. The town had to face destruction when Sher Shah Suri (1540–1545) defeated Humayun and the Pathan forces took their revenge on the then pro-Mughal town of Bhera.

In the recent past centuries, Bhera was an important trading outpost on the road to Kabul, and boasted of a taksal (mint) during the rule of Ranjit Singh. The city was known for its knife and cutlery craftsmen, who made fighting daggers (Pesh-kabz) as well as hunting knives and table cutlery, often fitted with handles of serpentine (false jade) or horn. Sir Robert Baden-Powell described the process by which craftsmen manufactured gem-quality serpentine aka false jade from ores obtained from Afghanistan: "The sang-i-yesham (ore) is cut by means of an iron saw, and water mixed with red sand and pounded (with) kurand (corundum). It is polished by application to the san (polishing wheel), wetted with water only, then by being kept wet with water, and rubbed with a piece of wati (smooth pottery fragment), and lastly by rubbing very finely pounded burnt sang-i-yesham on it. This last process must be done very thoroughly."

Bhera declined in importance due to the gradual shifting of the course of the Jhelum river, due to which the town lost its access to trade as the result of its location on the banks of the river.

Captain Devas came to Bhera and with the help of the local architect Dhanchand Kohli rebuilt eight Gates of the city facing different directions. These were named Multani Gate, Lahori Gate, Kashmiri Gate, Kabuli Gate, Peeranwala Gate, Chinioti Gate, Loharanwala Gate and Hajji Gulab Gate. Only four gates have survived to date, Peeranwala Gate, Hajji Gulab Gate, Loharanwala Gate and Kabuli Gate which too are in a state of disrepair now. During the reign of Mughal emperor Akbar, Bhera regained its former glory and was one of the 40 cities of Mughal India having a royal mint for minting gold and silver coins.

Ghaznavi, Ghauri and Ahmad Shah Abdali also passed through Bhera while attacking the subcontinent. After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the Sikh invaded and occupied Sargodha District. The Muslims faced severe restrictions during the Sikh rule. After the Sikh Raj (1790 to 1849), the British occupied Bhera till independence in 1947. The town of Bhera used to have a boundary wall and eight gates. Unfortunately, there is no official or public awareness about this great city of the past. During the period of British rule, Bhera including Sargodha District increased in population and importance.

Bhera was also called Wheat center and market of Mehndi. Camels were used as a means of transportation before the train and bus. There were many inns where businessmen and travellers stayed. Bhera was a great centre of industries. Knives and swords were made craft-fully. Wood work from here was famous all over the Indian sub continent. One of the carved door from Bhera city exists even today in the Museum of Lahore. In the city there are many beautiful buildings in Mohala Khawajgan, Ansari and Sheesh Mehol. Aurangzeb Alamgeer constructed a mosque near Chinioti Gate Markzi Mosque Mohala Sheikhanwal's Mosque and Chinese tomb near Kabuli gate. At first, Bhera was situated on a circular road, but as the population n 1004 CE

• Changiz Khan
• Babar holds it to ransom in 1519
• Ahmad Shah Durani attacks in 1757

New City Bhera is now in progress to settle at the junction of Bhera-Bhalwal Rd and Bhera Jhawarian Rd.

Attacks on Bhera through history

Bhera has also been attacked by a series of invaders including

• Alexander the Great
• Mahmud of Ghazni – sacked the city in 1004 CE
• Genghis Khan
• Babar holds it to ransom in 1519
• Mirza Muhammad Hakim – sacked the city in 1566 C.E.
• Ahmad Shah Durrani attacks in 1757

Bhera in Ferishta's Chronicle

Farishta records that after attacking Ajoodhun now Pakpattan.

The King marched from thence to another town in the neighbourhood called Dera the inhabitants of which were originally Khukhrain and were banished thither with their families by Afrasiab, for frequent rebellions. Here they had formed themselves into a small independent state and being cut off from intercourse with their neighbours by a belt of mountains nearly impassable, had preserved their ancient custom and rites, by not intermarrying with any other people. The King, having with infinite labour cleared a road for his army over the mountains advanced towards Dera which was well fortified. This place was remarkable for a fine lake of water about one parsang and a half in circumference.

Dera seems here to be a derivative of Bhera as it is close to Pakpattan and the lake close by Kallar Kahar lake and the people Khukhrain.

Last Raja of Bhera

The last chief or Raja of Bhera was Diwan Bahadur Jawahir Mal. a Khukhrain. The Diwan Family originally came from Peshawar and tradition ascribes the abolition the jazia in Peshawar to his influence.

British Era

E. Pop. (1901) 18,680. It is the terminus of a branch of the North-Western Railway. It is an important centre of trade, with manufactures of cotton goods, metal-work, carving. Bhera was founded about 1540 on its present site, but it took the place of a city on the opposite bank of the river, of far greater antiquity, which was destroyed at this period.

Personalities

• Hakeem Noor-ud-Din first caliph of Ahmadiyya and was a renowned physician, and scholar of Arabic and Hebrew.
• Muhammad Karam Shah al-Azhari ex-Justice Supreme Court of Pakistan and Islamic Scholar
• Ehsan-ul-Haq Piracha was Finance Minister of Pakistan from December 4, 1988 to December 6, 1990
• J.C. Anand film producer and distributor, founded Eveready Pictures
• Maulvi Sher Ali was an Ahmadi missionary who is most well known for his English translations of the Quran
• Bashir A. Tahir Sitara-e-Imtiaz
• Javaid Iqbal ex-Chief Justice of Balochistan High court Pakistan
• Neelo Pakistani film actress
• Malik Anwer Ali Noon politician
• Khakan Sajid ahort story writer

Historical places in the vicinity

• Tilla Jogian
• Salt Range

Sites of interest

Sher Shah Suri Mosque

Due to military and administrative importance of Bhera, Sher Shah Suri (1540–1545) constructed a grand mosque at Bhera, outside the wall city along the road. The style and structure closely resembles Mughal architecture. During Sikh regime 1799, the grand mosque was used as a stable by Sikhs. The mosque was rebuilt by the efforts of Mufti Ahmad Uddin Bugvi in 1858. The mosque consists of 3 large dombs, one central and two on sides. Small bricks have been used in the construction. Present establishment comprises upon Quran Hall, Hadith Hall, Boarding house, Central water pool & two minarets. Bugvia family is responsible for the management and maintenance of the mosque since 1858. The first official custodian was Ahmad Uddin Bugvi.

Ancient Hindu and Sikh temples

Although the Bhera lost its Hindu/Sikh population in the great exodus of 1947 several Hindu temples are still standing in Bhera. A temple near the Train Station, one temple near the Lahori Gate, and the third one near the Jhelum river. One beautiful Sikh Gurdawara building is located in the centre of the city.

Old mosques of Khilji and Tughlaq periods

There are a few other historical mosques belonging to the Tughlaq, Khiljian and other eras. These Old mosques of emperor Khilji an Afghan Dynasty and Tughlaq a clan of Turkish origin can be visited during the visit of the walled town. Due to unskilled local masons and lack of awareness, these mosques have lost their original shape. Shrine Of Muslim Saint "Hazrat Miran Shah Sahib".

Hazrat Meeran sahib was a saint of the area who worked for the transmission of Islam. His shrine is located in the western part of the town near river Jehlum. Peoples from different parts of the country visit his shrine in the month of March to give him homage.

Another old mosque located in the centre of the town is known as the " Tallian Wali Masjid ". It is reputed to have been built by a Hindu converted to Islam, by the name of Sita Talla.

Gates of Bhera

There was a wall and eight gates of the city. Names of the gates are Lahori, Chinioti, Multani, Kashmiri, Kabli, Peeran Wala, Loharan Wala & Haji Gulab. Names of five gates denotes the cities from which Bhera was connected with link roads.

Bugvia Library Bhera

Bugvia Library is located in the grand Sher Shah Suri Mosque. It was established by the scholars of Bugvia family. There is a huge collection of books on different subjects of Islam. Mostly are in Arabic, Persian, Urdu. A large number of hand written manuscripts are also available. This library is a useful source of reference for students, scholars and researchers for last about 200 years.

External links

• Bhera – The Town that Time forgot Part 1