Copperhead (climbing)
From Infogalactic: the planetary knowledge core
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In rock climbing, a copperhead is a small nut with a head made of soft metal on a loop of wire,[1] originally copper or brass, later aluminium. Copperheads are placed in the smallest cracks and seams where their malleability means that they can conform to the rock and grip better: often they need to be hammered into place.[2] Their small size and low strength makes them among the poorest kinds of protection; their main use is in aid climbing where a placement that will just support the weight of the climber can be used to make progress, even though it would be useless in a fall.
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