Edward F. Norton

Edward F. Norton DSO MC
Norton in 1952
Birth name	Edward Felix Norton
Born	(1884-02-21)21 February 1884 San Isidro, Argentina
Died	Winchester, Hampshire, UK
Allegiance	United Kingdom
Branch	Royal Artillery
Service years	1903–1942
Rank	Lieutenant-general
Expeditions	British Mount Everest, 1922 British Mount Everest, 1924 Swiss Mount Everest, 1952

Edward Felix Norton DSO MC (21 February 1884 – 3 November 1954) was a British army officer and mountaineer.

Early life

He attended Charterhouse School and the Royal Military Academy, Woolwich, and then joined artillery units in India and served in World War I. He had been introduced to mountain climbing at the home in the Alps of his grandfather, Alfred Wills.

Career

Mountaineering

His experience led to his taking part in the British 1922 Everest and 1924 Everest expeditions, reaching high elevations both years. His height of 8,570 metres (28,120 ft)—reached on the Great Couloir route—was a world altitude record which stood for nearly 30 years, only being surpassed during the unsuccessful Swiss expedition of 1952.

In 1924, he took over leadership of the expedition when General Charles Granville Bruce fell ill, and Norton was praised for handling affairs in the aftermath of the disappearance of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

Military career

He served at Staff Colleges in India and England, and commanded the Royal Artillery and later the Madras District in the 1930s. From 1940 to 1941, he was acting governor and then Commander-in-Chief of Hong Kong.

He retired in 1942, after a near fatal riding accident.

Later years

From 1952 until 1953, he advised John Hunt that previous Everest assault camps had been too low, and in 1953 it should be on or very close under the Southern Summit.

Major Work

Mountaineering

• The Fight for Everest 1924 (1925) Published by Longmans, Green (1925)