Marcelle Dormoy
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Marcelle Dormoy (1895-1976) was a French couturier, fashion designer, and former model active from 1928 to 1950.[1]
Dormoy started out as a mannequin for Paul Poiret, which she credited with helping her learn to "understand the female body."[2]
Dormoy worked with Vionnet alongside other designers such as Jacques Griffe and Marcelle Chaumont.[3] As première d'atelier, she was head of the workroom at Vionnet until she left to launch her own couture house in December 1928.[4] This date was open to question even while Dormoy was in business, with M.D.C. Crawford stating in 1941 that Dormoy launched "his" (sic) business in 1934,[5] and the mannequin "Freddy" recalling a launch date of 1927 in her 1958 memoirs.[6]
In 1937 Dormoy had her portrait painted by the artist Marie Laurencin, who accepted a fur coat as payment. This portrait was sold by the Swiss auction house Dobiaschofsky in 2013.[1]
Dormoy remained with Jean Patou in Biarritz prior to returning to Paris, France following the German occupation of France during World War II.[7] She continued working during the Occupation, providing clothes to clients such as the actress Edwige Feuillère.[8] In February 1946, Collier's published an article about Feuillère and Dormoy, noting that Dormoy's designs were among the first post-war models "by leading designers" to be bought by American buyers for export back home, despite a poor exchange rate meaning that each design cost $500-600.[8] A picture caption in the article noted that Dormoy's unfussy designs typically featured free-flowing lines.[8]
Dormoy closed her house in 1950, and died in 1976.[1] Her heirs presented a 1948 evening gown that she had designed to the Musée Galliera.[2]
References
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
- ↑ Fashion under the occupation, Dominique Veillon, Berg Publishers, 2002, pg. 100.
- ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
- ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
- ↑ Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
- ↑ Fashion under the occupation, Dominique Veillon, Berg Publishers, 2002, pg. 11.
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 8.2 Lua error in package.lua at line 80: module 'strict' not found.
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